TWO HAWKER DINNERS

My first meal in Penang was a week ago.  I arrived on a Sunday afternoon and when I went for a stroll from my hotel I found I was only one block away from the New Lane Hawker area where more than 40 carts were set up.  I picked out three things to eat.  At the time, besides the sliced duck breast I didn’t have a clue what the other two were.  

One turned out to be Curry Mee (a spicy coconut curry soup with yellow egg noodles, rice vermicelli, and bits of chicken tofu, congealed pork blood and shrimp)

The other was Char Kway Teow (long, flat rice noodles stir-fried in a hot wok with soy sauce, fresh prawns, cockles, scrambled egg, bean sprouts and green onions.)

My second foray to the New Lane Hawkers was two nights ago.  Dinner started with Loh Bak, pictured above.  The signature part of the dish is a ground sausage wrapped in a spring roll and deep fried.  After that it’s up to the you and the chef.  There are lots of ingredients displayed on the cart and you choose what you want put in yours.  Being a neophyte I asked her to assemble it.  Mine came, In addition to the sausage, fish balls, chunks of tofu and banana fritter, and a small spring roll. 

Everything was deep fried and delicious, served with the sides of chili sauce and a thickened tapioca flour, egg, five spice powder, soy sauce and water.

Her spicy chili sauce is homemade and I only wish I could come close to duplicating her smoky savory dip.

Next, I treated myself to Penang style fried oysters with egg.   Perhaps you can make out an oyster or two in the above photo.  You take a very thin batter which has cut up chives, toss it a half ladle full on the griddle, then break a a couple of eggs over the batter and stir like crazy.  When the eggs are just about set throw in a hand full of shucked oysters and give it a stir and a flip.  Wait till the oysters are done through and serve it up.  Like the Loh Bak, I watched my meal being prepared on the spot.  That’s one of the great things about the hawker’s cart.  Fresh ingredients prepared to order. 

Seafood Char Koay Kark, above, rounded out the dinner.  I ate it all and I was mystified about what those chunks were.  I thought they were fried potatoes.  It turns out that they are made from shredded daikon raddish mixed with rice flour and steamed.  You get a firm tofu-like which is cut into chunks , toss that with fried egg, bean sprouts and Chinese chives and you have a scrumptious dish of Char Koay Kark.  

My leftovers, half of the Penang oysters and Loh Bak rested happily in the fridge in my room.  It made a tasty breakfast the next morning with a hot cup of tea.

DINNER NUMBER TWO:

I started with an appetizer of Poh Pea, or sometimes called Pho Piah.  It is a small spring roll containing shredded shrimp, bean sprouts and bamboo shoots.   The wrapper used for the spring roll, which has a sweet and savory flavor is very thin, almost translucent.   

One appetizer down I chose another one called Chee Cheong Fon.  It is a very soft wide rice noodle which is rolled and sliced about ¾ inch wide.  The very light noodle is served with three sauces, fish, chili and one made with peanuts.  I liked the latter sauce.

My main dish was a bowl of Hokkien Mee.  He shrimp broth is filled with noodles. A combination of crunchy bean sprouts, sliced egg, shrimp and pork top the dish. 

I enjoyed all of the above, but I think dessert was the favorite part of my meal.  I carried my treasures, Apom Manis and Apong Telur back to my room to enjoy with a cup of tea.

Apom Manis  is or are small sweet pancakes about three inches across.  They are fried on a griddle and then a filling is put in the center and they are folded in half.  I bought four of them.  One filling seemed to be better than the one before and the first one was a hit.  One held banana. Another a mixture of crushed peanuts and jam.  Another third had a coconut mixture.   

My second dessert was Apong Telur.  It is a small thin crepe.  The batter is sugar, egg, coconut milk and flour. Originally the batter was poured into small clay pots and cooked over a brazier.  Now small tin bowls are used that fit into a frame over a gas fire.  The sides turn out very crispy sides and the center is a bit thicker with a slightly chewy texture. who wouldn't like a coconut flavored crepe?

Someday I’ll have to tell you about my lunch of salted fish fried rice.  This is going to be one of the staples at Chez Greenbrier.